Beyond BirdingOz

Bird Photography in Bali

Introduction

Situated just west to the Wallacean Line, the island of Bali is geographically diverse and very rich in bird life with 346 species of birds recorded on the island. Bali shares many very similar species of birds with it’s neighboring bigger island of Java. However it’s relatively smaller size (5,315 sq km) and the ease of travels to and within Bali makes it an even more lucrative and convenient location for bird photography than Java.

There is only one endemic species of bird in Bali, the Bali Myna. This is one of the most critically endangered birds in the world. As such the chances of seeing a naturally wild bird is very small. However, one stand quite a good chance of getting good photographs of captive-breed released birds in a number of spots within Bali Barat National Park.

Celu Sewage Lagoons

Located next to the northern entrance to Nusa Dua (close to Club Med Bali), Celu Sewage Ponds is a good starting point for most who come to Bali for bird photography. The lagoons offer a large number of water birds including Javan Pond Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Purple Heron, Little Pied Cormorant, and Sunda Teal. Early morning (just at dawn) is the best time to capture the large number of flying egrets and cormorants as they hunt for fish within the eastern most of the ponds

Though a very shy bird that does not allow you to approach close, Cerulean Kingfishers are quite common in Celu. Hence for most, Celu would probably be the best place to see and shoot this species. The mangroves bordering the western end of Celu are good for migrant waders such as Grey-tailed Tattler, Grey Plover and Curlews.

Ubud and the Paddy Fields

Around Ubud are a number of accessible paddy fields. The best time to find birds in the paddy fields is when the grains are still green and soft. Species include Javan Kingfisher, Bar-winged Prinia, Zitting and Golden-headed Cisticolas, Rainbow, Chestnut-headed and Blue-tailed Bee-eaters, Javan Munia, and possibly even the Java Sparrow.

Pura Luhur Batukau (or Pura Luhur Batukaru)

Located about 23 km north of Tabanan at the southern slopes of Mount Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau is the holiest temple in the region. As the temple just fringes the forest, a large number of forest species could also be seen here. The temple and the main road leading to the temple is also the best place to see and photograph the White-crowned Forktail.

Getting to the temple can be quite a challenge as it is remote and signage to the temple is poor. It is best to ask the locals for directions as you travel the minor roads that lead to the temple.

Bedugul

Bedugul is a mountain retreat popular with local tourists, and many come here to visit Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, a temple at the edge of Lake Bratan. There are many guesthouses in the area, many of them surrounding the lake, and the gardens of these guesthouses offer opportunities for bird photography. Bedugul is also where the Bali Botanic Garden is located (see below). The Bali Handara Golf Course north of Bedugul has also been recommended as a place for thrushes and the Sunda Bush-warbler.

Bali Botanic Garden

The Bali Botanic Garden is quite a difficult place for bird photography as the trees are very tall and mature, and the under story is rather dark . The Garden is also rather large and hilly. It is however a good place to find for thrushes, including the Javan Whistling Thrush. There are many Bottlebrush plants (Callistemon sp.) that line the road just beyond the garden entrance and near the VIP Guesthouse. Indonesian Honeyeaters are common amongst these bushes as they feed of the nectar of the Bottlebrush flower. They readily respond to a recorded playback of their call. Pied Bushchats are also quite common in the Botanic Garden, especially around the entrance.

Munduk

Another mountain retreat, Munduk is a place where people come for a day but stay for a week. There are many guesthouses and resorts perched on the hill slopes and the gardens of these offer much opportunities for bird photography. Common garden species include Bar-winged Prinia, Oriental White-eyes, Orange-bellied Flowerpecker, and Javan Munia.

Bunut Bolong

Bunut Bolong or Fig-tree Hole, along the Pekutatan – Pupuan Road, is where the road passes through the bole of an immensely large fig tree. This location has been mentioned as a good place to find hornbills, barbets, mynas and pigeons, especially when the tree is fruiting.

Bali Barat National Park

Located on the far western part of the island, Bali Barat National Park is the very last wild stronghold for the Bali Myna. Since 2006, the national park has a program to reintroduce captive-breed birds back to the wild. Reintroduced birds are best seen near artificial breeding boxes, and these can be found in Mimpi Menjangan Resort and Waka Shorea Resort, within the national park. There are also a large number of breeding boxes at Teluk Brumbun, but you would require a national park permit, a ranger guide and a boat to get you there, and this can work out to be quite expensive unless the cost is being shared out with increased numbers.

A cheaper way to see the Bali Starling is within in Mimpi Menjangan Resort, however you will need to be a day guest of the resort to gain limited entry (best method is to purchase rather expensive refreshments at the Bali Tower, which is a great place to spot canopy birds). Alternatively you can choose to be a staying guest at the resort (cheapest is the Mangrove Gazebo at about USD60 per night) to get unlimited access within the compounds of the resort. The resort is one of the best places to find and photograph the Green Junglefowl, the Black-winged Starling, and for the mammal photographers, the Timorese and Barking Deers. Spotted Kestrel can be found in the resort but very difficult to photograph.

Hiring a ranger guide has advantages too, as he is able to bring you to sites to find the Rufous-backed Kingfisher, Banded Pitta, Small Minivet, White-shouldered Triller, Island Collared Dove, Racket-tailed Treepie, Grey-rumped Treeswift, Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Black Eagle and Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker. The Lemon-bellied White-eyes and Streaked Weavers are also common at Teluk Brumbun. Some of these species mentioned above are more readily seen during the dry season (July to September).

Gilimanuk

As accommodation options within the National Park are limited and expensive, a cheaper alternative would be to stay in the many cheap guesthouses in Gilimanuk. The grasslands adjacent to the beach are good for Striated Grassbirds and Long-tailed Shrikes. The National Park Headquarters at Cekik also offers reasonably priced accommodations, and the gardens within the Park HQ have Lineated Barbets, Coppersmith Barbets, Orange-breasted Green Pigeon, Grey-cheeked Green Pigeon and Green Imperial Pigeon. There is also a large fig tree at the Military Monument just south of the National Park HQ, and when this tree is fruiting, many Bulbuls, Barbets and Pigeons will be seen. One last place recommended for bird watching is Gimimanuk Bay, but I did not have the opportunity to visit this location.

Beyond Bali

The eastern coast of Java and the western coast of Bali is only about 2 km apart, and frequent ferry connections between Gilimanuk and Ketapang (Java) makes a very viable option to visiting the eastern parks of Java. Baluran National Park is one of the best places in Indonesia for wildlife photography, and is one of the most accessible places on Java to find the Green Peafowl. Unfortunately I have not visited Baluran National Park myself and hence unable to comment  more on this location.

Travel Notes

As Bali sees a large number of visitors, the tourism infrastructure of Bali is very good. There are numerous budget car rental companies throughout Kuta, and competition results in very cheap and negotiable car rentals rates. Legally one requires an International Driver’s License to drive in Bali. Although the roads of Kuta are very small and congested, most roads throughout the island are quite well maintained. Traffic can be heavy on the major roads and urban regions, but traffic thins out significantly in the more rural parts of the island. Accommodation options are many (except for Bali Barat National Park) and cater to all budgets.

Article complied by Dr Eric Tan
Mountains & Beyond © February 2010
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